MILAN, ITALY – NOVEMBER 04: Wes Anderson attends the “The French Dispatch” Italian preview photocall … [+]
In an increasingly digitized and informal world, the simple two-piece suit has been relegated for many to only a few occasions—office meetings, weddings and funerals. But, more and more, stylish men are playing with the formality of a suit to create casual, everyday outfits with their jackets and trousers. In fact, with the right elements, a suit’s potential extends far beyond a courthouse or boardroom and might be one’s go-to outfit for getting groceries, getting together with friends or having a lazy Sunday at home.
When talking about dressing down a suit, it’s not a suggestion that there is no place for formality—quite the opposite. What’s needed is a shift in perspective about the approachability of suits, recognizing more opportunities to wear them than a few times a year.
As society leans further into casual dressing, wearing a black or navy suit with a crisp white shirt can feel almost outdated. At the same time, there’s a growing emphasis on self-expression through fashion. This has led men to reimagine formality, experimenting with how to style suits in ways that reflect their personal preferences—whether for casual outings, creative ventures or anything in between.
Nathaniel Adams, a New Orleans-based tailor and owner of his eponymous brand Natty Adams, sees—and practices—this trend himself.
“Now that most people don’t have to wear suits for work that means they get to wear suits for pleasure or comfort. Wearing a suit casually is a great way to do this; in the summer I like to go for a mod look with a slim cut single-breasted suit and a polo shirt. In winter I like a soft flannel double-breasted suit with an unconstructed chest canvas and a crew or turtleneck sweater underneath.”
A major factor on what makes for a casual suit option is fit and construction. The suit you’d wear to a wedding isn’t necessarily the same sort of suit you’d want for a Sunday around the house. This is partially due to the fit of the jacket and pants. Generally speaking, a formal suit should be more structured and tailored to the body while a more casual suit will give you a bit of leeway. To achieve this, look for suits with jackets that aren’t structured with a tailored waist, which tends to nip in at the sides and doesn’t allow for much extra room to relax in. Additionally, choose a jacket with unstructured shoulders for a softer, more casual drape against the natural curve of the body, like the relaxed wool-blend double-breasted blazer from COS or the Graduate Blazer in Italian wool flannel from Buck Mason.
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 25: A guest wears black sunglasses, a white t-shirt, a white pearls necklace, a … [+]
Fabric is as important as fit. Of course, suits come in a wide variety of fabrics for an equally varied assortment of circumstances. When thinking about how to wear a suit more casually, consider fabrics that aren’t restrictive and are a bit durable, too. One fabric that comes to mind for the ultimate casual look is corduroy. Not only is corduroy already perceived as a more casual fabric than a premium Italian wool, for example, it has the added benefit of being a bit insulating and can put up with a lot of day-to-day wear and tear.
Given the bulkier weight of corduroy, many suits made out of this particular fabric are naturally a tad bit boxier, giving one ample room to move in. Further, as corduroy is a twill fabric made from cotton, it will naturally stretch with extended wear and conform more to the body for even more comfort. Brands like Alex Mill have utilized corduroy to create one of their most popular suiting options, made even more appropriate for the casual suit wearer by the small design details like a pleated pant and softer shoulder. If you’re looking for even more of a comfortable wear, Land’s End’s stretch corduroy suit has a bit of elastane built into the fabric for extra stretch and fully lined for added warmth.
On the flip side of corduroy, linen may be the best bet for summer. Lightweight and breathable, linen is able to toe the line between formal and relaxed seamlessly. What’s more, linen is a natural fabric that will wrinkle, providing a built-in excuse to lounge comfortably without fussing over wrinkles.
With films like La Chimera and Queer heavily featuring linen suits as part of the main characters’ wardrobes, there has been a renewed interest in this fabric as a contender for summertime favorites. Both Dandy Del Mar and Quince offer inexpensive options that can easily withstand the steamy days of Mexico City or the cool nights in Tuscany.
MILAN, ITALY – JUNE 18: Daniel Toni Jais wears a dark gray and beige print pattern silk small scarf, … [+]
Since suit colors are typically neutral, consider them a blank canvas. It’s not about competing with—or even acknowledging—the innate formality of a suit. Instead, the best approach to build an everyday outfit around a suit is to go with what you already know.
As Natty Adams mentioned above, seasonality plays a large role in how we dress a suit down. Opting for polos—or even a t-shirt—in the summer keeps things breezy and light. For the winter, a turtleneck under a nice wool suit creates a flattering silhouette on most men. One will still look put together without having to default to the tiresome suit-and-tie combo.
Another way to keep things casual when wearing a suit is to play with fabrics, not just garment choices. For instance, a nice flannel button-down shirt under a wool suit plays with pattern and structure, while keeping one nice and cozy throughout the day. Being able to balance the interplay between fabric options can help set a less formal tone when building an outfit.
Finally, consider the entirety of the outfit. For example, a pair of sneakers is a tried-and-true way of approaching a suit without fussiness (but, be careful of where your trousers break, meaning where the hem meets the shoe, which can appear awkward with certain shoe styles.). Replace a dressy Rolex with a more irreverent Casio. Wear a patterned belt instead of a go-to black leather one. Have a white sock peek out of a pair of black loafers—you get the idea. The main thing isn’t to play into the preconceptions of formalwear, but to chip away at them to find a personal style that works for you.
American actress Gwyneth Paltrow, wearing a black turtleneck outfit with a long necklace, and … [+]
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